Posted by: Gideon | July 13, 2012

Travel, kids and food: Spain

Churros and hot chocolate – kids’ favorites in Spain

Spain is a country that offers incredible sightseeing – world-class cities, great museums, fabulous architecture, history, culture, beaches and more. So what about its food?

We found Spain a fairly challenging destination – not because of the food – which was fine, though seldom outstanding, but rather because of the cultural difference when it comes to mealtimes.

You see, people sit down to eat in Spain late, really late. Lunch seldom begins earlier than 2pm, and so tourists looking for a restaurant serving lunch at midday are most likely to find “tourist’ restaurants open – which are most likely to serve mediocre food at high prices. Authentic Spanish restaurants, where the Spanish themselves eat, won’t be ready for their lunch business so early.

Same with dinner – which can be expected to start around 9pm and continue long into the night.

For singles, or couples without kids, this is completely fine, but for parents with kids, one needs to either plan well, or get used to the fact that the meals that you are going to eat are  just not going to be so great, as you’ll undoubtedly be missing out on the best Spanish restaurants.

When I took my kids we stayed in an apartment in Barcelona – this gave us our own cooking facilities which were extremely useful – we weren’t tied to anyone elses eating hours. Out of the big cities, we often stayed in small villages or in rural accommodations with little or nonexistent nightlife, and as a result we found food was much easier to obtain at times that suited us.

Spain is a great place for kids – people are friendly, and even sights that one wouldn’t immediately think would be interesting to kids turn out to fascinate them. Think of the Gaudi buildings in Barcelona- they are so weird and unusual that kids find them fascinating, and the Guggenheim in Bilbao turned out be super kid friendly – well it should, with a massive flower bedecked statue of a dog outside.

Gaudi’s buildings are natural playgrounds for kids.

As for food, we found that it was good but not great. We struggled to find a memorable paella, and the sweet dishes and pastries were only ok. The best food we had by far was at a small “Pazo” – a rural castle – in Galicia in North-West Spain. Galicia is studded with the most incredible accommodations, typically noble houses and estates that have been in the same family for centuries, and we really hit the jackpot at Pazo de Souto, an incredible manor house somewhere on the way to La Coruna. It was amazing for the kids – it even had its own maze in the huge estate gardens. The food we had there was simply outstanding – wonderful “rape” (monkfish) and incredible steak. I would probably go all the way back to Spain just to eat there again.

I guess the one problem with our food experience in Spain is that we are not pork eaters – and if there is one product that Spain prides itself on it is its ham. Throughout our journey, we would see huge hams hanging from the ceilings in restaurants and specialty food stores, and I have no doubt that Spanish ham is outstanding – perhaps the best in the world for all I know. But we didn’t try it.

So, if you’re thinking of taking the kids to Spain go by all means – they’ll love it and so will you. But perhaps don’t expect to be blown away by the food, at least not in the main tourist areas. As soon as you get off the beaten path though, the chances are high that you’ll hit some fantastic places to eat. And make sure you have snacks on hand for the kids – chances are neither you nor they are going to get used to the Spanish eating times while you’re there.

I plan great family trips to Spain. For more details click here:

Pazo de Souto – a noble manor house in the middle of rural Spain with the best food we had in the country!

Daniel trying his hand at Khinkali – it’s piping hot and filled with soup!

I always tell families that no matter where they travel to, they’ll always find something for the kids to eat.

But in some extreme cases this may be more difficult to achieve. Definitely the most challenging destination that we have traveled to food-wise was the Republic of Georgia.

This former Soviet Republic was in days gone by a famous vacation spot renowned for its incredible food and famous wines. Things have changed though. While it is certainly one of the most fascinating destinations we have ever been to, we found eating a huge challenge!

Georgians regard their food very highly – it is a mix of West and East using  plenty of pomegranates, walnuts and other exotic ingredients. The Khachapuri cheese bread is famous as are the Khinkali dumplings.

But for us the challenges were many:

1) Language – we like to know what it is we are eating. Outside of the capital Tbilisi, it was almost impossible to find a menu in English (or any other language for that matter) and most Georgians don’t speak anything other than Georgian or perhaps Russian. The Georgian language has its own alphabet so even recognising familiar words is impossible.

2) Salt and salt and salt. Most things, especially salads, were doused in salt. It was mighty difficult to eat.

3) cholesterol – what’s that?

On our first day in Batumi, we ordered the specialty Adjara kachapuri cheese bread – it came with at least a pound of butter and a few eggs floating on top – if we had ordered one to share between the family I think it would have been ok, but we ordered five!! Live and learn.

Fruit stall Tbilisi style – I wonder what the trunk of the car will hold tomorrow?

So how did we cope? We went back to basics. We found grocery stores and made our own meals whenever we could. We bought fruit and took it back to the hotel. We stayed in homestays and guesthouses where someone spoke English and we could explain exactly what we wanted. In Tbilisi we found a Thai restaurant we loved and a local Georgian chain of restaurants that even the kids found they liked, and we even ate at McDonalds, something extremely rare in our family. Ask the kids today what their favorite meals in Georgia were, and invariably they’ll say McDonalds.

When all else fails…

As for drinks, this was no problem. Georgia produces all kinds of incredible lemonades – and the kids loved these. Fruit juices and sodas were common, though we didn’t like the very famous mineral water, which was naturally salty.

And what about the local food? I enjoyed some of it a lot – the cheese bread was excellent most of the time, the yoghurt that we ate in the guest houses was incredibly fresh and seemingly came straight from the cows – it had clearly never seen a pasteurization facility, and the dumplings were outstanding. It’s just that by and large, the kids didn’t like any of it very much. As for the wine, the Georgians still make incredible wine – and I’d never heard of any of the varietals!

So, my advice if you find yourself in a similar situation is this:  use local supermarkets and create your own meals, and if that doesn’t work, at least find someone who speaks English to help you!

Posted by: Gideon | June 25, 2012

Travel, kids and food: Turkey

Pide anyone?

Turkey offers one of the best travel experiences for families of any country. Above all, it’s a great place to eat!

Hotel breakfasts are typically Mediterranean – you’ll get cheese, eggs, salads, olives and sometimes cold meat. You’ll also get fresh bread, honey and jams.  There is no reason for anyone to leave the table hungry.

By the time your kids are asking about lunch, the traditional “lokantas” are opening up. These are typical restaurant that you’ll find throughout the country – in the front entrance the chef will be standing in front of up to twenty steaming pots of food, vegetables, rice, fish, chicken, lamb , beef and more. You can see what every dish looks like and then after ordering, your food will be brought to your table within a minute or so. What is so great about this is that your kids can see immediately what appeals to them so there is no reason for anyone being upset. Vegetarians are well catered for – rice and beans are a very common and very cheap dish, and you even get to choose what kind of beans you want as well. Outside on the street, the most common fast food on offer is doner kebap (much like you’ll see all across the western world these days) and kofte – meatballs that are often eaten in a baguette sandwich. Just steer clear of Cig Kofte – these are raw meatballs, wrapped in lettuce leaves. The stall holder will take a chunk of raw mincemeat and form the meatballs there and then, and serve them. I’d stay clear! Pide is Turkish pizza and a popular snack or meal everywhere  - a boat shaped base covered in cheese or meat. No tomato sauce – this isn’t Italy.

One can happily eat during Ramadan as well – lokantas stay open and often one will see local families feeding their kids – while the parents stand by.

Amazing “maras” ice cream.

Dessert is an absolute highlight. You’ll find many stores specialising in baklava and other sweet pastries, while a “muhallebeci” is a pudding shop – specialising only in different kinds of puddings.  Turkish delight is seen as a candy, not as a dessert. Ice cream is a popular way to finish the meal – from typically Turkish “Maras” style which is ice cream with a mastic gum base – you can turn the cone upside down and it’ll stick, and regular ice cream of course.

Drinks wise, soft drinks are everywhere, though typical Turkish drinks include ayran – a salty yoghurt drink served very cold and liked by most kids, and salep , a delicious warm winter concoction that is impossible not to love. However, since most people visit in summer, they seldom come across salep, which is only served in winter.

Finally, you’ll find the golden arches, but with a Turkish twist – ever tried a kofte burger?

My kids loved the food in Turkey – it’s very rare to come across anyone who doesn’t!

I plan great trips to Turkey. For more info click here.

If all else fails – the KofteBurger!

Posted by: Gideon | June 14, 2012

Travel, kids and food: Myanmar

Enjoying ice cream and Falooda (an Indian style drink with jello!)

Myanmar is becoming a hot destination for many travelers – not so much for families yet but I have no doubt that will change soon.

For most people, the food is going to be a totally unknown factor. It was for us. Myanmar food doesn’t have the same reputation as its South East Asian neighbors. One would expect that sandwiched between India, China and Thailand, the food would be a fantastic combination of all three of these fabulous cuisines, but that is not the case. Bamar food ( the dominant food in Myanmar /Burma) is based on curries that have very few spices added – so they are pretty bland. Rice is the staple food which will suit many families, but our experience with the local curries was disappointing. We had some excellent Bamar food in Yangon – there are some really great restaurants there – but elsewhere we quickly switched to other foods. Our greatest discovery was Shan food. Shan state is one of the largest and most important in Myanmar, and its food is based on the kinds of stir fries that anyone who enjoys Thai or Chinese food will be familiar with. Noodles, rice, stir fried meats and vegetables – we quickly learned that this was far superior to the average Burmese curry. In fact, the kids felt that the Shan sweet and sour chicken is the best they have ever tasted!

We had some unforgettable eating experiences – like eating with a tribal family in their hut on a mountain near Kengtung, and enjoying samosas in the local markets. The fruit was excellent – mangoes, rambutans and other tropical South East Asian fruits, which we love.  One cannot forget the tea houses that exist everywhere in Myanmar – you sit down at a small table and you are immediately served a pot of tea and some glasses, as well as a selection of (usually fried) snacks. Delicious.

Other foods of note: We had unforgettable Indian Biryani in Yangon. A speciality of a few simple and very popular restaurants downtown, this was a cheap and incredibly tasty dish. In Nyaung Shwe (Inle) we had fantastic home-made pasta at a Burmese owned Italian restaurant. In fact, service was really slow as they made the past and gnocchi on the spot after it was ordered. As we understand it, an Italian chef passing through some years ago stopped for a while and taught some locals to make real Italian food. Memorable!

“Western” style food was poor – we ate some terrible sandwiches, and outside of Yangon we struggled to find any decent coffee/pastry shops. There is a well known one on the main street of Pyin oo Lwin but we were disappointed with it.

We also enjoyed chapatis at the very local and authentic chapati street side stands in Mandalay city center. If you are looking for a very local eating experience – this is the way to do it.

To summarise – one can eat well in Myanmar, but it takes a while to figure out what you really like.

I plan great trips to Myanmar/Burma. For more info click here.

Relaxing at a local tea shop, Hsipaw.

Posted by: Gideon | May 31, 2012

Travel, Kids and Food: India

Today I am starting a new series within the blog relating to the foods available for kids when traveling. I’ll be looking at a whole selection of countries and discussing the food as far as kids are concerned.

Negotiating an Indian meal for the family

Let’s start with India. India is one of my family’s favorite countries. The country is probably the most fascinating we have ever visited, and while travel with kids in India certainly can be challenging at times, it is simply unforgettable.

So what can kids eat in India?

On our very first morning we went down to the hotel breakfast room in Mumbai and quickly learned that in India, hotels offer two types of breakfasts – there is the “Indian” breakfast – which varies depending on where you are in India but rest assured it will be spicy and unfamiliar names such as idlis, wadas and similar will pop up.  An there will be a standard Western style breakfast.

The Indian breakfast will consist of various curries and unusual bread type fare  (fried or not). In the South, rice dishes are dominant. For the adventurous it is often amazing and Daniel who was only seven at the time loved the Indian food. But let’s be honest – not every western kid is going to want to eat curry for breakfast. That’s where the Western breakfast comes in – eggs, toast, cereal, milk, regular bread, jams – basically a normal breakfast. To summarise, there is no reason why any kid should go hungry at breakfast.

An Indian menu written in latin characters may as well be in a totally foreign language if one is not familiar with Indian food to some degree. On my first trip to India, I read the menu but couldn’t understand a word. In the end I asked for help, said I didn’t want anything very spicy, and they brought me a dish usually reserved for kids – which I enjoyed very much.

Hotel buffets are often lavish affairs

So, one can see Aloo Mattar on the menu, but what does it all mean? By and large the wait staff in good restaurants and in hotels are able to help translate,  but if you are on the road then it helps to have a small glossary of Indian food descriptions on hand. The great thing about India is that so many restaurants also offer a very familiar Chinese style menu. So if you can’t decipher or you don’t want aloo gobi or palak paneer, then you may as well have sweet and sour chicken or noodles or something Chinese. We found that the Western dishes served in India were poor – so, I am not sure I’d suggest ordering spaghetti with tomato sauce, even if it’s at a five-star hotel restaurant. If your kid eats rice and nan bread, he or she will always have something to eat in India.

By and large, our kids had no trouble eating in India – the food was often excellent, and buffet meals were very easy to negotiate with kids. We didn’t eat street food – India has horrible hygiene on the streets and however tempting it may look, I suggest to keep away. Another tip is not to order what the restaurant clearly doesn’t specialise in – Daniel ordered chicken at a fish restaurant, with dismal results.

As for snacks – one can find a huge assortment – chips, cookies, chocolate – the flavors may be totally new – masala flavored chips for example, but why not try it. The fruit is excellent, and we saw stalls selling cucumbers for snacks – peeled as you wait! Local India sweets are wonderful if you have a sweet tooth.

Drinks wise one will find bottle water everywhere as well as the local soda products – variations of cola drinks and others, big name drinks and we really enjoyed Maaza – a mango flavored drink made by Coke.

Overall, India and kids get along just fine!

Local fruit is outstanding

Familar snacks are everywhere

I plan great family trips to India. For more info click here.

And some unfamiliar snacks – how about cucumbers with curry powder sprinkled on top?

Posted by: Gideon | May 11, 2012

The Great American Road Trip

Road trips – the quintessential North American family vacation

It’s that time of year where summer vacation becomes front of mind.

For the past few years our trips have been to very exotic and far off places – Myanmar last year, and in 2010 we travelled a lot – Turkey and the Republic of Georgia spring to mind, so perhaps it comes as no surprise that this year the kids have been asking for a road trip to California. Not exactly in the same category as Myanmar! But perhaps they just want a break from the exotic for once. So, it seems like we’ll be piling into the van and driving from Vancouver to San Diego and back over the course of a few weeks.

We do actually love road  trips. Our last was in 2009 when we spent a few weeks exploring the Four Corners region in South-western USA. So, this is a good thing and an easy one to plan – in fact, we aren’t going to do much planning at all, and just take it as it comes along the way. The Oregon Coast, Crater Lake National Park, San Francisco, LA, San Diego and lots in between.

As for me, a dad who loves to travel and see the world, the kids’ choice this year might have come as a disappointment. We discussed South America, going back to Asia and more, and yet, one of the most important things about traveling as a family is for the whole family to be on board and excited and importantly, parents should be listening to the input of their kids.

I know it’ll be a really fun trip – lots of beaches, some theme parks (I am not a theme park lover but they want to go), some National Parks, some hiking and exploration.

So my thoughts are already shifting to December or even next April. Front of mind are two possible destinations – either South Africa – we always love going there and it’s time for the kids to have a real African safari experience, or Colombia.

I’ll keep you posted!

This whole family came to invite us in to their village house near Bagan.

We’ve seen amazing things happening in 2012 so far in Burma/Myanmar.

As every person who has any interest in the country knows, it is generally accepted that free and fair elections took place in the past week. The opposition won 43 out of 46 contested seats and the  government has acknowledged this.  Aung San Suu Kyi will have a seat in parliament and for all one knows, may even be offered a cabinet post. While these elections were very limited in scope (more like by-elections than national elections), they do show that the government seemingly does want to reform the political landscape. How far this will go is anybody’s guess – it seems inconceivable that these could be the first baby steps towards full civilian rule in Burma again,  but then strange things have happened in my own lifetime, living through the handing over of power in South Africa from the white Nationalist Party to the African National Congress and Nelson Mandela – something that looked totally impossible only a few years before.

The reaction from the rest of the world to the current events in Burma has been very promising. The United States has appointed its first ambassador in a decade and other nations are looking at upping diplomatic ties and reducing or cancelling economic sanctions. It seems very likely that the current pace of events, Burma will very soon lose its pariah status completely.

Now what does this all mean for tourism?

Quite a lot actually.

Firstly, Burma is no longer undiscovered. For now it will still appeal to more adventurous travelers, but this will change rapidly as it becomes absorbed into the “regular” South East Asian tourist circuit. It is likely that within a few years it will be where Laos is, and will eventually catch up to Vietnam and Cambodia.  In Burma they are targeting 1 million tourists for 2012, up from only 300,000 in 2011.

As economic sanctions fall away, it will become much easier to travel in Burma. Credit cards are likely to be accepted soon, and the days of having to travel with wads of perfect US dollar bills will be behind us.

The country is already becoming more expensive. Never particularly cheap compared with its neighbors, hotel prices are now sing very rapidly, and soon this will be mirrored by the other tourist services – guides, transport, food and more. Prepare to have to spend a lot more.

With luck more of the country will soon open up to foreigners. At the moment vast areas are closed to foreigners and one has to apply for special permits which are regularly denied (depending on the current state of internal affairs).

It was pouring with rain outside and this very poor hill tribe family fed us everything they had while we waited it out near Kyaing Tong.

There is already a lack of hotel rooms in Myanmar. Soon we will see Western hotel chains at the major sites. At the moment hotels are either locally owned, or owned by large Asian companies.

In all likelihood we will see a rush of new travel guides enter the market. Lonely Planet has been publishing a guide to Myanmar for years, but Rough Guides and all the other major publishers are likely to jump on the bandwagon soon.

So, at this early stage, the following seems clear – we will see a vast increase in tourism to Burma and the growth of tourism services. Prices will go up. It will be easier to travel.  I am concerned though that what I find to be the most endearing trait of the Burmese people might eventually be lost, and that is their absolute, no holds-barred friendliness – they are certainly the most genuine people I have come across on my travels – happy to help with no expectation of monetary reward. Unfortunately in so many other places in the world we have seen the local people adapt very quickly to the arrival of mass foreign travelers and their money – people simply join in the global chase after the tourist dollar – and that authentic and genuine attitude sometimes falls to the wayside. I hope it doesn’t happen in Burma.

I am convinced that the time to go is now. Some of the innocence will be lost before long.

It’ll never be too late – but go now if you can.

I arrange great family trips to Myanmar/Burma. Click here for more details.

Daniel clambering up Lions Head - it's easier than it looks!

I recently visited Cape Town with Daniel, aged 10.

Over the past decade or so, Cape Town has taken its place in the very top rankings of places to visit anywhere in the world, and it’s fantastic for kids.

So what did we during the time we were there?

1) Lions Head and Table Mountain:

Cape Town is surrounded by iconic mountains – everyone knows of Table Mountain, but on either side you have Devils Peak and Lions Head, and Lions Head is perfect for an easy climb with kids. For the most part it is a simple path but in one section there is an option to use more exciting hand holds to clamber up a steeper section. Lots of fund for any ten-year old!

2)Boulders Beach

Boulders is where you can go to the beach and spot wild penguins too. A National Park, it’s a great Cape Town spot – a lovely beach, and sometimes hundreds of penguins – hiding in the rocks, swimming in the surf and staring up at the sun.

Boulders Beach

Ready to Fire!

3) Noon day Gun:

Every day at noon a cannon-shot roars across Cape Town – the famous noon day gun hs been firing blanks since 1806 to announce that midday has arrived. It’s a fine excursion, with history, beautiful views and of course the crash and smoke of a real naval cannon dating back over 200 years!

4) Sports:

Cape Town is home to some world-famous stadiums – Newlands is home to iconic rugby and cricket stadiums, while the new Cape Town Stadium hosted the World Cup Semi Final in 2010. Whatever time of year, you can be sure there’ll be a major sports event on. We went to rugby and cricket during our short stay. We could have gone to soccer too!

International cricket at Newlands

5) Whale watching:

Hermanus, a small town about 90 minutes from Cape Town by road is one of the best places anywhere for land based whale watching. In the whale season (approximately May – October), the whale crier can be heard throughout the town announcing the arrival of whales, which are easily seen from land.

Time out at Clifton

6) Clifton beach

Cape Town has spectacular beaches, and Clifton is one of the best. A great place to hang out, play sports and for the bravehearted, rush into the freezing cold ocean.

There is so much more to Cape Town – from a visit to the infamous former prison of Robben Island to the winelands to fascinating markets, it’s all there. And for a ten-year old, it’s simply paradise!

I plan great family trips to Cape Town and South Africa. For more information click here.

Posted by: Gideon | March 8, 2012

Guatemala with Kids: A Land of Volcanoes

To end off Guatemala, here are some great pictures of Pacaya Volcano – to visit the volcano is an unforgettable experience!

The Mountain steams continuously.

Riding up Pacaya

Exploring Pacaya on foot.

The chain of Volcanoes

Antigua watercolor

We spent some quality time in Antigua.

Antigua was established in the early 1500′s as the first Spanish colonial capital of Guatemala, but within a few years it was evacuated after it became obvious that the city was not only right next to a volcano but that it was an epicentre for earthquakes. It was subsequently destroyed a few times due to massive earthquakes, and as a result, what remains today is effectively a Spanish colonial town from the 1700′s! Some buildings still lie in ruins from earthquakes of 300 years ago, while others have been spruced up and gentrified and turned into wonderful hotels and restaurants.

It’s a fantastic place to spend a few days. The indigenous local people wear brightly colored costumes and one can happily spend hours wandering the streets just watching life go by. It feels perfectly safe. There are plenty of art galleries and stores to keep you shopping if that is what you want to do. Antigua is well located for exploring the whole mountain region of Guatemala – especially the wonderful little towns and villages , each which has its own local market, and don’t forget the nearby Pacaya Volcano – one of the most fun experiences you can have with kids in Guatemala – it’s a tough climb on foot, but a much easier horseback ride suitable for all ages (someone is holding the reins and walking next to you).

Kids will be kids! Antigua, Guatemala.

Antigua just can’t be missed. It’s the perfect place to hang out and enjoy Guatemala.

Guatemala is also a great place for adventure – we didn’t get to do that much, but from white water rafting to caving to hiking and more, it’s all there and all accessible within just a few hours of Antigua.

I’m now planning great family trips to Guatemala. Read more about it over here.

Traditional weaver, Antigua

Colonial Buildings, Antigua

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